Eating with the Vargeadys

micro restaurant reviews / everything is out of five.

India Curry House

Location: 80 Pertosa Dr.

J says: I enjoyed the paneer pakoras. The ratio of paneer to batter was a bit off, but flavour-wise they were just what I wanted. The Dragon Chicken (marked as HOT!) was not as hot as expected but was a decent portion of meat. Sometimes I worry that my whiteness makes people go easy on the chili. The house noodles also get a passing grade. Nothing off-the-charts, but all solid, in my opinion, and hit the special Hakka-place on my palate. The restaurant itself, however, was… dubious. I never like arriving to a completely empty space (although 30 minutes later the lunch buffet crowd came) and this time was no different. Service is a bit dodgy, and the seating is worn-out. There’s gotta be better Hakka places than this. Rating: JJ

A says: I am officially a licensed driver! To celebrate, J and I rented a car and drove to Brampton - aptly nicknamed ‘Browntown.’ We decided to head to India Curry House - more because we knew how to get there and less because we had heard anything particularly good about it. But seeing as it may well be harder to find non-Indian/Asian food in this area, we probably could have taken a chance on any restaurant and possibly found a hidden gem. India curry house is no gem. The hand painted mural on the wall is a nice touch, but overall, the place is a bit shabby and the food (we went for a la carte Hakka dishes instead of the buffet) is passable, but not great. If you’re ever cruising around Brampton looking for food, I’m sure you can find better than this. Rating: AA

Average Rating: ♥ ♥

Fin Izakaya

Location: 55 Eglinton Ave. E

J says: I kind of like having greetings yelled at me in a language I don’t understand. Fin’s atmosphere is definitely more formal, less chaotic compared to Guu. You could take a date here. Prices are relatively high compared to quantity, but the food quality is generally very good. The eel fried rice was a winner (and our new favourite dish after trying it for the first time at Ematei) as was the tempura vegetables, pan-fried duck and lotus root. The takoyaki was a bit more batter than tako, but tasted good anyway. Watching the servers at other tables also made it clear that Fin favours fun presentation, with small, dramatically stacked bento boxes, rice pressed in wooden blocks, fluttering garnishes, colourful salts and table-side blowtorching. Service is friendly, and you won’t have to shout to get fed. Price is the only downside; we spent over 40 bucks and I left a bit hungry. Rating: JJJ

A says: After not being a huge fan of Guu, the other more (currently) popular izakaya restaurant we’re tried, I wasn’t terribly excited about trying Fin. But I’m glad I did. The atmosphere is still friendly and welcoming (they yell their greeting and goodbye when anyone comes or goes, but are not yelling constantly) without being unsettling and the space in big enough that you can eat without elbowing anyone else in the face. Japanese small plates are in general not all that cheap, but the food and service were decent and it’s definitely a solid choice for Japanese food in the Yonge-Eglinton area. Rating: AAA

Average Rating: ♥ ♥ ♥

Bannock

Location: 401 Bay St.

J says: Great little space, friendly service, and decent food. Decent, not great. My meat was topped exclusively with delicious cured meats, but I found the crust slightly hard, and I wasn’t impressed by the bread pudding. Then again, I’m never really impressed with bread pudding. The S’mores pie was indeed Really Awesome, and completely within Bannock’s theme of simple comfort foods done well. I enjoyed the meal, but left a bit deflated. I’m arrogant, I guess; I could make that S’mores pie just as well. Bonus: Beau’s on tap! Rating: JJJ

A says: The dining room at Bannock was packed when we sat down for dinner with a friend on a Saturday night. There is something cozy about the space - like being in a really high-end cabin and the service (which I’ve found to be true at most O&B restaurants) was lovely. On the food - I started with the soup of the day, inspired by Thai flavours with generous amounts of chicken and coconut. It was good. For my main, I went with the Veggie Bannock - bannock with grilled veggies and what was listed on the menu as ‘comfort cream.’ What is comfort cream? I have no idea. I was expecting perhaps a creamy cheese or a bechamel type sauce. What I got was bannock brushed with olive oil and herbs - like a light pesto, covered with greens and grilled veggies. It was tasty, but nothing particularly creamy or comforting. Then we got dessert. I went with the chef’s croissant bread pudding with raisins, chocolate and creme anglaise. It was very good. Our fellow diner went with the Warm S’mores Pie. I only had a few bites, but it was spectacular. Soft, warm, rich, and gooey - I would go back for just this. The dessert elevated my review from good to great. Rating: AAAA

Average rating: ♥ ♥ ♥ 1/2

Fabarnak

Location: 519 Church St.

J says: For all the hype this place gets, the food we had was only OK. You can get similar or better quality at numerous brunch spots. I can definitely understand the press for their excellent social activity (read A’s review) but I had heard the food was top-notch as well. My potatoes were served cold and tasted like pure garlic. My sandwich was pretty good - an interesting mix of ingredients - but a bit unmemorable; mostly I remember the egginess of the bread. Our server brought food before remembering cutlery (which happens in more places than you’d think, weirdly). I don’t want to dwell on negatives, though - food was OK, the space is pretty, comfortable and friendly. What Fabarnak represents to the community is more than what’s on the plate, thankfully. Fingers crossed that it’s usually better than we saw (they get good-great reviews from most places), because I want to like them. Rating: JJ

A says: Fabarnak has been getting all kinds of attention of late and was even awarded the People’s Choice Award at the 2012 Toronto Restaurant Awards (yes, that’s a thing). So I had high expectations when we arrived for Saturday brunch (the space is used to provide food for the homeless on Sundays). I won’t say I was disappointed, because the food was decent, the space was nice (if a bit cramped) and the service was good. But I wasn’t as impressed as I wanted to be. I ordered the yeast-leavened pancakes with maple-bourbon pears, peameal bacon, and rosemary whipped cream. It all sounds great… but was just ok. That being said, Fabarnak sources most of its food locally and operates as a social enterprise of the 519 Community Centre helping people with employment barriers gain culinary training and experience. So however you feel about Fabarnak’s food, you can always feel good about supporting their ideals. I won’t be back for brunch, but I may be back to give their small plates a go! Rating: AAA

Average Rating: ♥ ♥ 1/2

La Mexicana

Location: 838 Yonge St.

J says: I believe A dislikes Mexican food in mind, not in heart. So, when an opportunity to strongarm her into a Mexican restaurant arrived, I was excited. It went OK, cuz this place is OK. Housemade salsas (as far as I can tell) and fresh ingredients, decent service. I could probably eat a dozen of their empanadas. I’ve been here several times, and the experience is consistently good. Rating: JJJ

A says: I am probably the wrong person to rate this place, as in general, I don’t like Mexican food a whole lot. That being said, it’s hard to go wrong with quesadillas. And I will say the service at this place was pretty good, considering they accommodated my request to have everything (and I mean EVERYTHING) on the side. The decor is nothing special, but their portions are generous and their central location in the city makes them a convenient spot to get together with your friends who like Mexican food. Rating: AAA

Average Rating: ♥ ♥ ♥

George

Location: 111C Queen St. E

J says: When our server came to sweep the crumbs from our table between courses, he carefully opened A’s fork 90 degrees to give himself access, swept, and then returned the fork to its formal alignment. This attention to detail was present in all facets of our meal, except for our delightfully green serving boy, who stammered out our plated ingredients but charmingly so. The food was detailed and diverse, every bite a different combination of complementary ingredients. My first course was a thick piece of tuna sashimi, dressed with sprouts, crisp toast, and a half-dozen other things including dollops of rich mustard, olive and I honestly have no idea what else. Simply too many good things to remember. Second course was foie gras and hen. It was the first time I tasted foie gras and I finally understand why, despite moral objections, the dish is still pursued. It is richness defined. I was in a duck haze by the time the steak course came, buried in chanterelles, wine, and chili puree, paired with parsnip and potato. I could barely finish it. The cheese course was a welcome “break”. Dessert consisted of a heavenly white chocolate cream (I didn’t recognize the name it was given - but the texture was like mousse crossed with ice cream) with an espresso interior, decorated with beignets and a handful of other things lost in the fog of gluttony. The worst thing on any of the plates was still objectively very good, and A’s crisp-fried sweetbreads were one of the most perfect and greatest things I’ve ever tasted. They managed to do all of this with a friendly, generous and humorous attitude (evidenced by the “Happy Anniversary” they wrote on our dessert plates in chocolate - A has mentioned in passing to the hostess about our date). There is simply nothing else I could’ve asked for. In fact, I left feeling positively stuffed; I might have asked for less. Rating: JJJJJ

A says: George is rated as not only one of the best restaurants in Toronto, but one of the best in Canada. So when we decided to try it for our anniversary, we had high expectations. Despite being in a bit of a sketchy area on Queen East, the interior space is an inviting mix of industrial details and elegant finishes, making it feel luxurious without being pretentious. After some convincing from J, I agreed to do the 5 course tasting menu which you must choose without knowing what each course is going to be and the chef prepares at his discretion. When two people commit to this (our server’s words), the chef prepares two completely different menus, so your table actually gets ten items. Here’s what I remember about what I ate, although I’m sure I’m missing things from each course: Amuse Bouche - A mini pastrami and cheese sandwich with a mango relish; 1st course - Lobster on a quinoa cake, cauliflower puree, pomegranate, and rapini salad with a fried bread crisp; 2nd course - Seared foie gras, pan fried sweetbreads, sauteed mushrooms and pinenuts with green onion and passionfruit puree and a quail egg served with a relish and duck skin cracklin (Note - our server did ask if we were alright with foie gras beforehand in case we had objections. We didn’t and it really is ridiculously good. Like butter made of meat.); 3rd course - Water buffalo with broccoli and hollandaise sauce, matchstick veggies, and a swirl of seasoned potato, crisp on the outside, creamy on the inside; 4th course (cheese course) - Goat cheese aged in ash with housemade breads, spiced nuts dusted with powdered sugar, apple slices, and preserves; 5th course (dessert) - Chocolate souffle with gingersnap cookies, white and dark chocolate sauce and cognac ice cream. Each plate was composed like a work of art and no two bites of that meal were the same. The service is impeccable and the food is excellent. Eating at George was more than just a fancy dinner, it was a culinary experience and absolutely worth every penny. Maybe one of the best meals I’ve ever had. Rating: AAAAA

Rating: ♥ ♥ ♥ ♥ ♥

Globe

Location: 124 Danforth Ave.

J says: I’ve been to several Winterlicious venues, and Globe is the first one to make me agree with what so many people have said - that a lot of restaurants/chefs sleepwalk through Winterlicious and quality suffers. My braised beef rib was actually pretty good, with a hint of Chinese spice, heat and very tender, but the fried duck breast? It just was not good. Rather, it tasted ok, but KFC could’ve done a better job keeping it moist and tender. Similarly, my walnut tart was decent, but several people at the table were underwhelmed with their choices and portions (the espresso cake on the menu was swapped for a chocolate cake - the same boring chocolate cake any restaurant in town could serve). I chose the pate for a starter, and it was more or less a fancy meatloaf. I was expecting something spreadable, or at least somewhat soft (otherwise, why give me a knife and toasts?) but it was dense and lacked distinct flavour considering it was supposed to be game meat. I give Globe full marks on service - they were quick, friendly and efficient, so it pains me to say that the food just wasn’t very good, and was definitely not good value for what was served. I hope outside the bubble of Winterlicious it is a different story. Rating: JJ

A says: A group of 10 of us went to Globe for Winterlicious. They gave us a great table on the 2nd floor and in general, the service was decent and the space was lovely. The food, on the other hand, was a let down. I started with what was listed as ‘Butternut squash consomme with smoked ricotta dumpling, kohlrabi and sherry oil.’ What I got was roughly 2 tablespoons of watery broth with one plain dumpling in it. I continued with “Chicken fried duck breast with sweet potato waffle chips, collard greens and buttermilk gravy.” What I got was a slab of fried duck with a stingy sprinkling of fried sweet potato shavings on top sitting on a heap of soggy greens. The desserts they were offering were not as listed on the Winterlicious website, but were alright. Altogether, it was disappointing. Maybe if Globe had put as much work into preparing the actual food as they put into crafting an elaborate sounding menu, we would have had a better meal. Rating: AA

Average Rating: ♥ ♥

Barque Smokehouse

Location: 299 Roncesvalles Ave.

J says: This was a brunch trip. I had the Barque Benedict which features their smoked brisket. The brisket is insane. What was more surprising was, perhaps, that the poached egg was one of the fluffiest poached eggs I’ve had in recent memory. The cornbread fell apart easily under the sauce, and the salad was entirely superfluous, but the meat, eggs and sauce were so incredibly good. Plus, I stole a few of A’s bacon bits and two of those contained more smoke and flavour than an entire package of store-bought. This place has meat that you want. Rating: JJJJ

A says: Barque is currently something of a hot spot for Toronto meat lovers and we expected it to be busy when we arrived in the middle of Sunday brunch madness. The place was packed and the line for a table was literally non-stop the entire time we were there. The space is nice and very kid-friendly, although it did start to feel a bit cramped. We were lucky to get 2 spots at the bar right away and despite the crowd, still got fast, friendly service. I got the French toast - 3 slices of lovely thick bread, topped generously with ricotta, candied almonds and smoked candied bacon bits, drizzled liberally with honey. It was really really good. These are not your average bacon bits. This is not your average French toast. Barque takes the usual items on a brunch menu and does unique and delicious things with them. You should go. And take us with you. Rating: AAAA

Average Rating: ♥ ♥ ♥ ♥

Smith

Location: 553 Church St.

J says: Great space, great service, pretty good french toast. The “carmelized bananas” turned out to be a mash of not-particularly sweet banana, but the portion was small, so I guess that’s lucky(?). The toast itself made up for that error, challah bread perfectly skillet-crisped, with generous maple syrup (the real, awesome kind, not the HFCS shit) and blueberries. Solid brunch option. A’s right though, her omelette was virtually unseasoned and lacked any sort of character besides blandness. Rating: JJJ

A says: We showed up for Sunday brunch with friends and found a lovely space with fast, friendly service. Too bad the food didn’t impress. Or I should say, what I ordered didn’t impress me. I got the Smith omelette which changes weekly, but what I got was pretty bland and not particularly worth $10. I did steal a bite of J’s French toast, which would certainly have been a better choice. We debated getting the buttermilk scones as well, but decided not to - and when we saw them come out to another table (2 small, dry looking things with a stingy side of preserves for $6), we were glad to have passed on them. This is a trendy little place in the heart of the Village, but with so many really good brunches out there, I have to say skip it. Rating: AA

Average Rating: ♥ ♥ 1/2

F’Amelia

Location: 12 Amelia St.

J says: In a celebratory mood, we followed up on several recommendations for F’Amelia. I rarely crave Italian, so when the mood strikes, we go big. The chef’s choice sampler was a perfect balance of preserves, rich cheese and meats. I even ate the olives, and I hate olives. Chicken liver mousse was a surprise hit - disturbingly delicious. I chose the Norcina pizza, topped with house-made pork sausage, prosciutto, cream, mushrooms and shaved nutmeg. It was fantastic, particularly the sausage. As the waiter explained, everything F’Amelia serves is made in-house, and the care and concern shows in the flavour and quality of the ingredients. A’s gnocchi really were the lightest, most delicate dumplings we’ve ever tasted. The after-dinner truffles were pretty good, but not worth raving about. Still, we were left with a very favourable impression. Friendly, casual but professional service, great preparation and quality house-made products. I can’t think of anything I’d change about our experience. It’s not cheap, but it was honestly worth every penny. Rating: JJJJJ

A says: We don’t have a lot of Italian places on our ‘must try’ list. But F’Amelia came highly recommended so we made a weeknight reservation for dinner. The space is tucked away in Cabbagetown and has a rustic but refined feel to it. I had read a few reviews that suggested that although the food was delicious, the service was lacking - this was not our experience. Our server made sure we were well taken care of the entire time, and we were more than well fed. We started with the Chef’s choice of meats, terrine, cheeses, bread and condiments. All fantastic. Even the chicken liver mousse. That’s right - it’s mousse. Made of liver. Sounds disgusting, I know. But honestly, it was strangely and delightfully good. Airy and light like mousse should be, but with all the rich, textured flavour of a nice cut of meat. If I hadn’t eaten it myself, I wouldn’t believe it was good either. My main course was gnocchi with Jerusalem artichokes, house-made nutmeg pancetta, and black truffle. It was maybe the best gnocchi I’ve ever had - fluffy pillows of pasta combined with wonderful earthy flavours. Plus homemade sweet truffles for dessert! If you haven’t been here yet, you should go. Rating: AAAAA

Average Rating: ♥ ♥ ♥ ♥ ♥